Every day I
walk my two corgis, Suay and Crash, down the street and a new adventure begins.
Every street is lined with hundreds of trees; Magnolias, Palms, and Evergreen
trees stand side by side like they belong together. In the mornings, I stop in
our corner produkti (market), dogs in tow, to buy the rare can of iced coffee.
"доброе
утро" (Good morning), I say to the two young shopkeepers in their dark
blue smocks. Keep in mind, I don't speak Russian.
"здороваться" (Hello), they
chime back. "кофе сегодня?" (Coffee today?), they ask.
"да" (Yes), I answer.
"восемьдесят рублей,
пожалуйста" (80 Rubles, please), the girl with the long black hair
responds. I always bring exact change, which they toss in the cardboard box lid
on the counter.
"спасибо" (Thank you), I
reply to both of them.
"до свидания" (Goodbye), they
croon back in unison.
My girls and
I walk along the boardwalk, made of concrete pavers, which separates the rocky
beach and the temporary wooden vendor stalls. Adults and children alike walk by
me cooing "хорошие собаки", (nice dogs) or "маленьких
собак", (small dogs). In early spring, these stalls seem to appear
overnight and are filled with handmade wooden crafts, seashell wall clocks, or
t-shirts that declare "Sochi...The City of the Future". As summer
draws on, tourists from all over Russia flock to the seashores and test their
abilities at the temporary shooting ranges, dart throwing games, take in a 9Dimensional
short film, or take a picture with the local parrots, monkeys or the occasional
sloth. Scattered between these stalls are dozens of stolovayas, Soviet-era
cafeteria style eateries, clogged with stale cigarette smoke. Here you can try an olivye salad, sweet or
savory blinis, or the traditional meat barbequed on skewers over charcoal,
shashlik.
I reach the
park at the end of the road where the monument of King Triton riding a
two-headed sea monster stands. The girls chase the dozens of over grown pigeons
or play with their street-smart stray dog friends that have made the park their
home. The Russian tourists pose for a picture with the immaculately manicured red
oleander flowers as children drive their rented power jeeps, dodging all the pedestrians
as they drive.
The girls
and I head home, jumping over the huge holes in the sidewalk that appeared
overnight or find ourselves walking in the street because entire sections of
sidewalk are torn to bits. Even on the sidewalk I have to be on the lookout for
cars, as it is not uncommon for drivers to use the sidewalk or the opposite
side of the street if it means they don't have to wait. This chaotic scene is
often intensified by the locals blaring their loud techno music or other music
that can best be described as Russian Mariachi.
Returning
back to our high-rise apartment building, I wonder if the electricity in our
building is still on or if it has gone out without warning as it often does.
This is usually answered as I walk through the main door and greet the
concierge women that sit in a small office off the main hall watching their
Russian soap operas. It is not until then that I know if we can take the lift, or if we will be required to walk the stairs to our tenth
floor flat.
Even though
I am a foreigner here, Sochi has become my community and my temporary home for
the past year and every day is a new adventure.
The beach in Adler
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